[Paper Review] Progress during the NOPP Wave Model Improvement Program

Donald T. Resio, C.H. Vincent+16 more|arXiv (Cornell University)|Aug 9, 2019

Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing73 references4 citations

TL;DR

This paper summarizes advancements in wind wave modeling under the NOPP Wave Model Improvement Program, focusing on enhanced source terms for wave generation, dissipation, and nonlinear interactions in deep and shallow water. The integration of new physics into operational models improved forecast skill by 30–50 percent, significantly advancing wave prediction accuracy.

ABSTRACT

This paper reviews the research activities that were carried out under the auspices of the National Ocean Partnership Program (NOPP) to advance research in wind wave modeling and transfer maturing technologies into operational community models. Primary focus of research activities that were funded under this program was to improve the source terms associated with deep water wind waves with a secondary focus on shallow water processes. While the focus has been on developing capabilities for stochastic phase averaged models, some of the research work reported here also touches on phase resolved models as well as updates that are needed to the classical stochastic equations to be applicable in shallow water conditions. The primary focus is on the development of new source terms to account for wave generation, dissipation and nonlinear wave-wave interactions. A direct result of this program has been the development of new physics packages in operational wave models that have improved forecast skill from 30 to 50 percent. Since this is an overview paper summarizing all the activities that were undertaken under this program, only the major results are presented here. The readers are directed to other publications for more details. The paper ends with a discussion of the remaining major challenges in wind wave modeling, from the larger open ocean scales to the smaller coastal domains.

Motivation & Objective

• To improve wind wave modeling by developing advanced source terms for wave generation, dissipation, and nonlinear wave-wave interactions.
• To enhance forecast accuracy in both deep and shallow water environments through improved physics in operational wave models.
• To transition matured research technologies into community wave models for operational use.
• To address limitations in classical stochastic wave models, especially in shallow water conditions.
• To identify and prioritize remaining challenges in wave modeling across open ocean and coastal scales.

Proposed method

• Development of new source term formulations for wave generation by wind and wave dissipation mechanisms.
• Incorporation of nonlinear wave-wave interaction physics into phase-averaged wave models.
• Adaptation of classical stochastic wave equations for applicability in shallow water regimes.
• Use of observational data and theoretical modeling to validate and refine source term parameterizations.
• Integration of new physics packages into operational wave models such as WAVEWATCH III.
• Application of stochastic phase-averaged modeling frameworks with updated source terms for improved spectral representation.

Experimental results

Research questions

• RQ1 How can wave generation by wind be more accurately represented in deep water wave models?
• RQ2 What improvements are needed in wave dissipation and nonlinear interaction terms for accurate shallow water wave prediction?
• RQ3 To what extent do updated source terms enhance forecast skill in operational wave models?
• RQ4 How can phase-averaged wave models be extended to better represent wave processes in coastal environments?
• RQ5 What are the remaining scientific and modeling challenges in wind wave prediction across scales?

Key findings

• The program successfully developed new source terms that significantly improved wave forecast skill by 30 to 50 percent in operational models.
• New physics packages were integrated into operational wave models, demonstrating measurable gains in predictive accuracy.
• Advances in source term formulations enhanced the representation of wave generation, dissipation, and nonlinear wave-wave interactions.
• The research extended the applicability of stochastic wave models to shallow water conditions through updated parameterizations.
• Phase-resolved modeling approaches were explored and shown to complement phase-averaged models in capturing complex wave dynamics.
• The program identified persistent challenges in modeling wave processes at both large open ocean and small coastal scales, highlighting areas for future research.